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Toner with niacinamide and red vine extract

Jun 21, 2022 | Face care, Formulations

It is intense hydration season and one way to get more of it is using a toner. Here I attempted to make a toner with niacinamide and red vine extract which has dual function. It has hydration properties as well reducing enlarged pores.

making a toner with niacinamide and red vine extract

1. Ingredients of A TONER

My main objectives for a toner were to hydrate, heal the skin and tighten dilated pores. For a while I had niacinamide and red vine extract sitting in my drawers and waiting for their tribute. The day has come!

1.1. Niacinamide

Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3 which has several benefits for the skin. It is a great ingredient to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reduce fine lines and wrinkles, tighten and minimize enlarged pores.

Niacinamide also has the ability to reduce hyperpigmentation, increase the synthesis of ceramides and regulate sebum production.

This is a great ingredient for most of the people, however some may react to it. But you will never know this, until you try.

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1.2. Red vine extract

This extract is made with water and glycerin, so it will easily dissolve into a water phase. It has tannins, anthocyanins (responsible for reddish color) and flavonoids that are astringent and can reduce the size of the pores.

Red vine extract also has resveratrol which is an antioxidant and a powerful anti-aging ingredient. This extract can be used in a lot of ways, however I really wanted to test its ability to tighten pores.

I have made a face lotion with this extract as well. You can check it out here:

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1.3. hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a famous humectant that you can get in different sizes. The bigger the weight, the more it will stay on the skin and can form a thin film. However, the smaller it is, the deeper skin layers it can reach and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

You can get hyaluronic acid in these sizes:

  • High molecular weight (1.0-1.5 million Daltons, forms a gel in water)
  • Low molecular weight (0.8-1.0 million Daltons)
  • Extra low molecular weight (80 000 – 110 000 Daltons)
  • Super low molecular weight (less than 50 000 Daltons)
  • Ultra low molecular weight (less than 6000 Daltons)

Here I have used super low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (less than 50 000 Daltons), which should reach deeper skin layers. Also, as it has a low molecular weight, it will hydrate quite quickly and won’t form a gel.

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1.4. Other hydrating and soothing ingredients

For some more hydration I have included betaine (also known as trimethylglycine) and provitamin B5. The latter one is also a good skin soothing ingredient.

To soothe the skin even more, I have added a bit if aloe vera powder which is known for its calming and soothing effect. It also has minerals and vitamins that skin definitely needs. I have added these ingredients just because I really want a toner with some calming properties.

2. Toner with niacinamide formula and recipe

Phase A

43.95 g | 87.9 % Distilled water

1.5 g | 3 % Niacinamide

0.1 g | 0.2 % Aloe vera 200x powder

0.5 g | 1 % Betaine (trimethylglycin)

0.15 g | 0.3 % Hyaluronic acid (less than 50 000 Daltons)

Phase B

0.5 g | 1 % Provitamin B5 / panthenol

1.5 g | 3 % Red vine extract

Phase C

1.75 g | 3.5 % Blend 1388 eco plus

0.25 g | 0.5 % Versatile preservative BL

This makes 50 g of the product.

checking-pH

3. PROCESS OF MAKING A TONER WITH NIACINAMIDE

  1. Weigh all phase A ingredients into a beaker and stir it until everything has dissolved.
  2.  Add phase B ingredients and mix everything until the mixture is clear.
  3. Check the pH – it should be at least 5. Add phase C and if needed adjust it to 5-5.5.
  4. Pour the facial mist into a bottle with a spray nozzle.
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4. MAKING SUBSTITUTIONS

  • I don’t recommend using something instead of niacinamide. It is really a star ingredient here and it is hard to find an alternative with all these benefits.
  • You can use some other hydrating ingredients instead of Aloe vera powder or provitamin B5.
  • You can try another extract that will suit your skin’s needs. Make sure it is made with glycerin so it will mix with the other ingredients. If you happen to have an oil based extract – don’t use it, as we need an emulsifier to mix water and oil.
  • I don’t recommend using essential oils here, but if you want to use it up to 0.5%. It will probably need a solubilizer to dissolve and not just sit on top.
  • You can use another type of hyaluronic acid (just not the high molecular weight) or use water instead.
  • You can use another preservative, just make sure it is soluble in water and check the required pH. Also, use the appropriate amount and if needed to use more than Cosgard, then discount some from water content.

5. How to use a toner?

I have made this with a spray pump and I really like to apply it this way. However, there are other ways how to do that. I really liked this video, which explains and shows different ways how to do it.

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