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Tangerine liquid shampoo

Jan 24, 2023 | Formulations, Hair care

I am really happy with this tangerine liquid shampoo. It took me a while to figure out the blend of surfactants that would go well and rinse the hair while leaving them soft and silky.

TANGERINE LIQUID SHAMPOO

1. INGREDIENTS FOR MAKING A HOMEMADE SHAMPOO

Shampoo was one of the first things that I actually wanted to make. However, finding the right surfactants were always a problem as I wanted to make my own blend of surfactants and some of the milder surfactants were not available to me.

After a lot of trials (and I mean that) I have finally made a shampoo that is worth sharing. It is creamy yet still pourable, gently washes away the dirt and smells amazing. So, let’s get to this homemade shampoo recipe!

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1.1. HOMEMADE SHAMPOO RECIPE – SURFACTANT BLEND

This shampoo is made with a lot of different surfactants each having their role. I really wanted make a shampoo that was very gentle on the scalp and hair yet effective at foaming. Some surfactants don‘t really foam much, but they still have a very good washing power. However, like most of the people I like foam when washing my hair.

I also got a new surfactant to me  – disodium/sodium cocoyl glutamate – which actually has some very nice properties. It is mildly anionic and is usually used as a co-surfactant to stabilize the bubbles.

This surfactant has a very good affinity with the skin and hair and leaves a silky, smooth feeling. It also acts as a conditioning agent which I am all for as my hair need some extra conditioning.

The main surfactants that bring bubbles and washing power here are sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) and cocamidopropyl betaine. The SCI is is anionic, sulfate free surfactant that is considered mild while cocamidopropyl betaine is a secondary surfactant and a foam booster.

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1.2. SECRET SURFACTANT

To make this formulation even milder I have included coco glucoside and glyceryl oleate which is actually not a surfactant but a refatting agent. So, the hair after washing doesn‘t feel too clean. And this ingredient does change a lot in the feeling of the hair. Many of my other formulations did not have this ingredient and they felt different. So, if you have a chance of using it – use it!

And finally I have included some decyl glucoside which is a non-ionic surfactant to increase the mildness and a bit of flash foam in the shampoo.

I wanted to keep this formulation very simple, so it does not have any other additives such as panthenol, glycerin, inulin or any others. If you want to, you can always add them, but just know, that it won‘t be the same as this one.

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2. FORMULA OF A TANGERINE HOMEMADE SHAMPOO

Phase A

64.7 g | 64.7 % Water

10 g | 10 % Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI)

9 g | 9 % Cocamidopropyl betaine

7 g | 7 % Disodium/sodium cocoyl glutamate

Phase B

3 g | 3 % Decyl glucoside

3 g | 3 % Coco glucoside & glyceryl oleate 

0.3 g | 0.3 % Tangerine essential oil

1 g | 1 % No-Kons PA20

0.5 g | 0.5 % Lactic acid (80%)

1.5 g | 1.5 % Salt (NaCl)

This makes 100 g of the product.

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3. HOW TO MAKE A LIQUID SHAMPOO?

  1. Weigh all ingredients of phase A into a beaker, mix them and write the total weight with the beaker.
  2. Place the beaker in a water bath and heat it until the SCI has melted through.
  3. Weigh the beaker and add the missing water that has evaporated.
  4. Stir while cooling down and after it reaches 40°C (104°F) add phase B.
  5. Adjust the pH. It should be around 5.5 or higher as the SCI may hydrolyse.
  6. Add salt to shampoo, mix everything well. At this point the shampoo could appear a bit cloudy and with clumps forming – everything is fine.
  7. When the shampoo has cooled cover it and leave it for 8-10 hours. You will see it getting white and much thicker.
  8. After waiting it is good to test pH once again and pour into your containers.
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4. TANGERINE SHAMPOO INGREDIENT SUBSTITUTIONS

  • I don’t really recommend substituting surfactants. If you want  to – try to look at the same charge of the surfactants for better substitution.
  • You can add some more additional ingredients such as humectants, extracts. But keep in mind they can change how the shampoo looks and you will be making a different homemade shampoo.
  • Preservative must be used in this formulation. However, not all preservatives can be used in water water based formulations and especially with surfactants. If you make changes to surfactant, please make sure it can be used in shampoo formulations. Also, remember that vitamin E, rosemary CO2 extract, raspberry extract are not preservatives.

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