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Facial oil with safflower, marula and pracaxi oils

Sep 6, 2022 | Face care, Formulations

Facial oils are worth adding to skincare routine to hold additional moisture. Depending on the oils used, they can regulate natural sebum production, reduce acne breakouts and blemishes. As these days my skincare routine is very minimal and I wanted to have some facial oil goodness. Also, facial oil is super easy to make!

SAFFLOWER, MARULA AND PRACAXI FACIAL OIL

1. INGREDIENTS FOR FACIAL OIL

Facial oils are made with quickly absorbing oils, but are not limited only to them. Usually we use basic carrier oils with some more expensive oils to make this product more luxurious. 

I had some exotic oils (to me!) – marula and pracaxi and really wanted to try these in facial oil formulations. As they are rather expensive I used them in lower amounts just to see if I like them there.

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1.1. safflower Oil

The majority of this formulation is made with safflower oil, which is a lightweight oil suited for dry, mature skin. Safflower oil has a bit of vitamin K which is good for alleviating skin prone to redness and atopic skin.

This oil also has vitamin E that is a natural antioxidant, however the oil itself is very sensitive to oxidation and should be used quite quickly (in 6-8 months).

1.2. Marula Oil

Marula oil comes from marula tree which is found in Southern, East and West Africa as well as Madagascar. It has a bit of fatty acids such as palmitic acid and stearic which can crystallize if the oil is kept in colder temperatures.

I have seen some crystals floating around, however in formulations we need to have uniform ingredients, so the oil was heated and then cooled afterwards.

Marula oil is suited for very dry, dehydrated, sensitive skin as it has some occlusive abilities. It softens and nourishes the skin and can be easily absorbed by the skin.

Marula oil is yellow in color and can have a characteristic scent. It can remind seeds and animal hints, but should fade quite quickly after application. My nose is not good at picking scents for the last year, so I did not notice the scent at all.

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1.3. Pracaxi oil

Pracaxi oil is obtained from the seeds of Pentaclethra macroloba  tree found in Amazon. It is typically used for hair formulations such as conditioners, shampoos, sprays, leave-in serums, but it is not limited to that.

Pracaxi oil is very nourishing due high content of fatty acids (mine has around 20%!). The main fatty acids are behenic and lignoceric. It also has some vitamin E and phytosterols. Due to this composition the oil can be used for dry, mature, delicate skin prone to discomfort. It nourishes and softens skin and helps to repair damaged skin and boost skin cell renewal.

As the oil has high content of saturated fatty acids, in colder temperatures it can be solid. Mine was solid and I had to heat it. Afterwards it stayed in a rather semi-fluid, cloudy texture.

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2. FORMULA OF a facial oil

Phase A

19.2 g | 64 % Safflower oil

6 g | 20 % Avocado oil

3 g | 10 % Marula oil

1.65 g | 5.5 % Pracaxi oil

0.15 g | 0.5 % Vitamin E

This makes 30 g of the product.

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3. How to make a facial oil?

The whole process is very simple and can be done in less than 20 minutes. Which I absolutely love.

  1. Weight the marula, pracaxi and avocado oils into a beaker and heat them if neccessary.
  2. When everything has melted get the beaker out of the water bath occasionally stir.
  3.  When oils reached lower than 40°C (104°F), add safflower oil, vitamin E and mix everything well.
  4. Pour into bottle with a pipette (or other top of your choice).

4. FACIAL OIL INGREDIENT SUBSTITUTIONS

It will be hard to substitute ingredients in this formulation as it was delicately picked to be suited for skin prone to redness. It also is suited for mixed skin type and I can see that it definitely helps my skin to alleviate some redness.

However, you could include squalane, hemisqualane or some other lightweight esters to change the viscosity and spreading ability. As this serum is a bit too thick for my taste and it could absorb a little bit better.

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