Avocado-facial-lotion-4

 

 

 

Lotion with avocado oil and hyaluronic acid

Jul 19, 2022 | Face care, Formulations

This formula features avocado oil and hyaluronic acid – both have a lot of benefits for a mature skin. Here I have used two types of hyaluronic acid for a better and more intense hydration. Let’s begin!

Face lotion with avocado oil and hyaluronic acid

1. Hyaluronic acid

I wanted to make a lotion for a mature skin that needs hydration, is prone to redness and has cuperose. The main ingredient that I used for hydration is hyaluronic acid that has a different molecular weight. 1500-1800 kDa and 10-50 kDa (k stand for kilo, Da is Daltons, which is a unified atomic mass unit).

You can find different molecular weight hyaluronic acid – the higher the number, the bigger the molecules.

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid forms a gel in water and forms a film on the skin. It takes a while to properly hydrate this type of hyaluronic acid in water and some formulators just leave it on the counter for several hours.

hyaluronic-acid-two-jars

Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has smaller molecules which don‘t sit on the skin‘s surface, but reaches deeper skin layers and provides hydration there. It is always better to combine different weights of hyaluronic acid for a more balanced hydration, though it doesn‘t have to be like that.

The higher molecular weight hyaluronic acid should be pre-dispersed in glycerin or 1,3-propanediol to dissolve better and faster. Doing this will prevent making blobs or ‘fish eyes’ in the formulations. As hyaluronic acid is sensitive to heat and high shear, it will be included in the cool down phase.

hyaluronic-acid-gel

2. Oily phase

For an oil phase I have chosen avocado oil, rice bran oil (my skin loves this), cherry oil and some IPM (isopropyl myristate). To get a more thick lotion I used a behenyl alcohol (it is similar to cetyl and cetearyl alcohols). Take a look here to see the differences between these three ingredients.

You can read about cetyl and cetearyl alcohols here:

2.1. avocado oil

Avocado oil is a bit thick, dark green oil that has quite a fruity scent. It can be sensed in a finished product which is quite nice. This oil has a lot of skin benefits due to its composition. It has sterols that are healing, restorative and can reduce inflammation.

Avocado oil also has a lot of unsaponifiables ranging from 2 to 10 % (this is a lot!). They are mainly tocopherols, carotenoids and phytosterols. The latter can improve skin‘s barrier function and microcirculation. They also have anti-inflammatory (soothing, calming) activity.

This oil is a bit heavy for me, so this is why I added some IPM. It is really thin and absorbs quickly into the skin. Cherry oil also has a quick absorption rate, so the skin does not feel greasy at all.

avocado-oil
avocado-oil-2

2.2. Cherry oil

Cherry oil is something that I always wanted to try as it has a more balanced fatty acid profile. It is a fast absorbing oil, has a very faint scent of cherry pits and it is not overwhelming.

Cherry oil is rich in vitamin E, carotenoids (antioxidants) and a variety of phytosterols. These improve skin‘s barrier function and microcirculation, have some anti-inflammatory activity.

We should keep in mind that cherry oil is sensitive to oxidation so it should not be heated at high temperatures and stored away from air and light.

bottles-of-oils-and-emulsifier

Here are some other formulations that you might like:

3. pansy extract

Recently I got a new extract which I wanted to try. The exctract is made with glycerin and pansy flowers.

 According to the supplier this plant extract provides anti-bacterial, anti-itch, moisturizing, cleansing and radical scavenging effect in formulations.

It is mainly used for cleansing products, especially for young skin. But it can also be used for anti-cuperose applications, which I am interested in.

Pansy-extract

Even if it doesn‘t do anything for cuperose, I will be happy to see some calming effect on the skin. The extract itself is brown in color and a little bit viscous. It comes preserved with potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate and for this reason it should be used in a cool down phase.

This extract can be used 3-10 % in formulations, though as I am making a face lotion, I used it at 3% to not have a sticky feeling on a skin. Also, sticky feeling does change over time and probably with the seasons as well. As several months ago lotion with 5 % glycerin did not feel sticky to me at all.

3. formula OF LOTION WITH AVOCADO OIL


Phase A

2 g | 2 % 1,3-propanediol

0.25 % | 0.25 g Hyaluronic acid 10-50 kDa

0.25 % | 0.25 g Hyaluronic acid 1500-1800 kDa

Phase B

64.4 g | 64.4 % Distilled water

1.5 g | 1.5 % Sodium lactate

2 g | 2 % Provitamin B5

Phase C

8 g | 8 % Emulsan (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)

4 g | 4% Avocado oil

4 g | 4 % Rice bran oil

2 g | 2 % IPM (isopropyl myristate)

2 g | 2 % Behenyl alcohol

Phase D

5 g | 5 % Cherry oil

Phase E

0.6 g | 0.6 % Cosgard (preservative)

3 g | 3 % Pansy extract

1 g | 1 % Inulin

This makes 100 g of the product.

Avocado-facial-lotion

4. MAKING FACE LOTION WITH AVOCADO OIL AND HYALURONIC ACID

    1. Weigh 1,3-propanediol and hyaluronic acid into a beaker. Mix everything well. Put aside.
    2. Weigh phase B ingredients into a beaker, write down the weight of beaker. Heat it up in a water bath till it reaches 75-80 °C / 167-176 °F. Then weight it again after heating and add the same amount of heated distilled water that has evaporated during the heating.
    3. Weigh phase C ingredients into a beaker and heat it up in a water bath till it reaches 75-80 °C / 167-176 °F. 
    4. Pour B phase into C phase and blend them. You should see an emulsion forming. Stir all the time while the emulsion cools as it can become thin and unstable.
    5. Add cherry oil to the emulsion when it has reached below 40 °C / 104 °F. Blend everything well.
    6. Add predispersed hyaluronic acid and mix well. You should see the emulsion getting a bit more viscosity and gel like. 
    7. Check the pH. It should be less than 7 for the preservative to work well.
    8. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well.
    9.  When the face lotion is cold, pour it to the jar any other packaging that you like.
    Avocado-facial-lotion-2

    5. MAKING SUBSTITUTIONS

    • You can use other oils that you like.
    • You can substitute the emulsifier.
    • Use another extract or just distilled water instead.
    • You can use glycerin instead of 1,3-propanediol.
    • you can use more water instead of inulin.
    • I don’t recommend omitting hyaluronic acid. 
    • Preservative is a must. Just make sure that you use recommended amount of it. And if it is pH dependent – correct the pH.
    Lotion-in-progress
    Lotion-in-progress-2
    Lotion-in-progress-3
    Avocado-facial-lotion-3

    6. APPLICATION AND PERCEPTION OF AVOCADO OIL AND HYALURONIC ACID LOTION

    Lotion itself is thick and it soaps a bit. I feel quite a lot of dragginess and next time I would use less of the emulsifier – probably 4-6% instead of 8%. And I think that I would add some lighter esters as well to get better spreading.

    Use the face lotion after cleansing your face – after a toner, serums.

    The only word that comes after application is – plump. I feel that my skin is plumped. Though the nose area is a bit dry.

    0 Comments

    Submit a Comment

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *